Developing 4x5 Colour Film
This is another post for all you film users out there (and for those who are thinking about using film.. go on you know you want to!).
My impression of colour developing has always been that it is something of a black magic art. When I was a kid, we had a magazine called 'you and your camera' and they would talk about colour developing and enlarging and make it sound ultra scary. Because of this, I never really considered developing my own until I had a conversation with Baxter Bradford some time ago. He had bought a fully automated E6 machine (the Jobo 2500 ATL) and he described the results and made everything sound very easy.. As long as you had the automated machine.
Now at the time I set up a search on ebay that tracked whenever one of these would come up. One year later and I hadn't seen anything. In the meantime, Dav Thomas was doing his own development using a Jobo CPP and getting good results. I carried on waiting.
The final straw came when I was talking with Richard Childs in Eigg and he was saying how easy it is to develop your own in just the very basic thermostatically controlled Jobo (CPE2). He then offerred to show me the developing unit when he came down to visit Charlotte and I when we were on holiday in Knapdale a couple of weeks later.
Well a few weeks came and went and we finally met up with Richard and spent the day taking photos and travelling around the Knapdale area and that evening, Richard took over our kitchen and told me I would be developing my own film taken that day! Now I don't get stressed that easily but I'd taken a few pictures I really liked and I can't say I wasn't concerned about things. To cut a long story short, apart from the entertainment Charlotte and Richard had watching me analysing the timer intently and being over-careful pouring chemicals, everything went very smooth and to see your pictures arrive out of the wash was a revelation - how cool is that! thjese were the pictures I had taken a few hours earlier!
So now I'm hooked. Knowing how easy this was and also having it confirmed to me that I can have the same development quality of a pro lab but at 16p per sheet instead of £2.50p per sheet (plus saving on the cost and risk of post and packaing) finally convinced me to just get a bog standard bit of kit and have a go at it.
As soon as I got back from holiday, a Jobo CPE2 was acquired on ebay for £150 (I probably over paid but I was excited) and I'd ordered a bunch of chemicals from First Call Photographic (E6 & C41). Dav came to visit later in the week and sold me his 4x5 drum, reel and mounting station (thanks Dav!) and when the CPE2 unit arrived on the Thursday I was fortunate to have been left home alone and took full advantage in commandeering the kitchen for my first batch of self developed transparencies.
Now let's have a blow by blow run through of what is actually happening..
- Mix Chemicals - You will be using four chemicals.
- First Developer - Mix: 50ml 1st Dev + 200ml water
- Colour Developer - Mix: 50ml Colour Dev A + 50ml Colour Dev B + 150ml Water
- Bleach Fixer - Mix: 50ml Bleach Fix A + 50ml Bleach Fix B + 150ml Water
- Stabiliser/Quickflo - Mix: 10ml Stabiliser + 240ml Water
- Set up a timer of some sort.. 6'30" first dev, 2' wash, 6' colour dev, 2' wash, 6' bleach fix, 4' wash
- Fill up your Jobo CPE until the water will just covers the bottom 5 or 10mm of the drum that contains your film. (I'll cover loading the film in a sec)
- Full your four wash bottles with water
- Water should be near 38deg C (which is just about warm hand hot) although I've processed accidentally at 36 and had no visible problems..
- Switch on thermostat and measure temperature in one of your water containers using a decent thermometer (not in the bath). Tweak thermostat temp until this reads 38 +/- 0.5
- You should have the three measuring jugs of 1st dev, colour dev and bleach fix sitting in the water too..
And go!! Pour the 1st dev into your film, give it a knock to prevent bubbles, start the timer and stick your drum on your CPE.
When the timer runs out, pour your 1st dev back into the measuring jug and then wash..
To wash, pour half of a wash bottle (125ml) into the tank and wash for about a minute. Pour this away and repeat with the second half
Follow the same process with your colour developer and then the same process with your bleach fix. and then a final wash cycle with 2min instead of 1 min per half bottle of water.
Open the top of your drum and flush with cold water for a bit under the sink and then put each of your transparencies into a tray containing the stabiliser solution (actually a weak formaldehyde solution).
And thats it, you just take each tranny out of the stabiliser after a while and hang them up to dry (I currently use a coathanger with picture hooks glued to it).
You can then re-use the chemicals with 30 secs added to each step and then again with 60 secs added to each step. (i.e. 7'00-6'30-6'30 and then 7'30-7'00'-7'00'
The only part I haven't covered is loading the film. Well this just uses a spiral film reel which takes a single sheet per spiral. Richard Childs suggests using only 4 sheets per spiral just in case they protrude and hit each other.
Here are a set of videos taking your through the whole process. Each video is about 10 minutes long and is pretty much unedited. If you watch the all of the films, you will see every part of development process. Feel free to give me some pointers as I'm still learning and this was only my second batch of transparencies developed.
If you want to push your film, just add an extra couple of minutes to the first developer for one stop and an extra five minutes for two stops.. (I'm still working on this so any advice would be helped as the results have been poor)
| Run? | normal | -1 | +1 | +2 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| First Run | 6'30" | 4'30" | 8'30" | 15'00" |
| Second Run | 7'00" | 5'00' | 10'00" | 16'00" |
| Third Run | 7'30' | 5'15" | 9'45" | 17'15" |
The Results
The results so far have been excellent and the tolerance for cock ups is quite high :-) (good job!) The results of this batch can be seen in the sidebar (click to see larger images).
My next step should be to get a tank that will take three drums so I can do 12 sheets at once.. Or an intermediary step, just a spare reel so I can load another reel while the first is running..
p.s. If anybody knows of an ATL 2300, 2400 or 2500 for sale, please let me know as I may well be interested at some point. For the volume of film I'm currently developing, the CPP is fine though.
UPDATE: A few sources have said that it is best to add the water before the chemicals when mixing A and B parts. This makes sense to me, but like most things I've found out about the E6 process, things like this are advised but not critical.
UPDATE & WARNING: My slapdash approach of using chemicals in the kitchen and whilst making coffee is probably borne of working in chemical lab at GEC for a year. A certain Laissez Faire attitude was prevalent which is something I obviously absorbed (like the bromine, carbon tet and god knows what else). Be careful around chemicals in general, always clean surfaces with plenty of water and wipe down with a rag that you keep just for that purpose. Rinse the whole sink thoroughly, blah, blah, blah - you get the message. The good news is Stanley and I aren't dead and it's thanks to the E6 process (if it had been the Kodakchrome process I may have een a little more careful). Toxicity of E6 chemicals is fairly low but not zero and allergic reactions are a possibility. Do not bathe newly borne babies or small hairless rodents in first fev or colour developer!
UPDATE: I have found an Arista E6 guide that gives tables of what changes you can make to developing times if you don't have exactly the right temperature. Now obviously this isn't for Fuji E6 but the chemical processes are similar so it should give and indication of what might happen. Interestingly, it says that if you process at 70F you will get colour shifts and density problems (really!!? wow!)
| 70F(21C) | 75F(24C) | 80F(27C) | 85F(30C) | 105F(40C) | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| First Dev | 26' | 23' | 20'30" | 16'30" | 6'30" |
| Colour Dev | 7' | 6'45" | 6'40" | 6' | 4'30" |
| Blix | 15' | 9'30" | 9' | 8'30" | 6'30" |
UPDATE: Here is the Jobo E6 Manual, quite useful
UPDATE: In response to a comment on youtube about how many you can process/can you reuse chemicals. You need about 33ml for each 4x5 transparency so for 12 transparencies you need 400ml - however the tank for the jobo only takes 270ml so really you should only develop 8 sheets. It seems like theses standards are fairly conservative though and I've had OK results with Velvia and Provia on the third run (i.e. 12 sheets) using only 250ml of chemicals. I have had my Astia go slightly green I think (although I'm not 100% sure) so to be really safe, I would only develop two runs of 4 4x5 sheets with 250ml of chemicals ... 250ml because it's easier to work out :-) .. I've also put 16 sheets through just to see what happens and they came out OK as far as I can tell - more accurate testing is needed obviously... oh joy...
UPDATE: Joanne Carter adds that you should probably be careful of the first developer and colour developer cross contaminating each other, even fumes. I haven't seen direct problems beyond a slight green cast in the third run of chemicals but only on Astia film. She also says to make sure your emulsion side is pointing toward the centre of the drum. Thanks Joanna!
UPDATE: Michael Gordon has posted a great video on how to process black and white film at your own kitchen sink too ... just site and admire his pipette here How-to Video: Daylight Sheet Film (4×5″) Development
Highlight this Comment Johan Rydberg27/10/2009, 09:18
If you do not want to run a large-ass lab of your own, I recommend the ATL 1500. It's smaller than the 2x00 series, but has pretty much the same features. I got one of my own that I use with Kodak's single-use 6 bath chemicals, with great success. I've also used it with the same Tetenal kit you're using.
Highlight this Comment Tim Parkin27/10/2009, 09:54
Thanks Johan,
Apart from the amount of space they take up, do you know if there are any other negatives to do with the Autolab 2x00 series? (I know they allow you to use expert drums).
I missed buying a 2500 unit about a year ago that went for £300. 1500's have been going for £1,000 and up..!!
Highlight this Comment Dav Thomas27/10/2009, 13:02
One way that I differ from you in what I do is in the measuring out of chemicals; I measure mine out in a separate measuring cylinder or syringe. That way, if I accidentally pour too much in I can just put it back in the bottle (obviously you can't do that if it's got mixed with the water!) It's also necessary to do this if you're using something like the Fuji C-41 kit and only mixing small amounts as you could be using as little as 4ml!
Like the idea of maxing the small hole in the bottle tops – good idea!
I do more rinsing than you but that's easier for me as I have a lift, I normally change the water about 4-5 times over 2 minutes, I'd imagine that would help with the re-use of the chemicals too.
You haven't mentioned developing times – did you stick to the recommended times for standard processing? I add an extra 40 seconds for Fuji film using Kodak E-6 and Richard mentioned he does that using the Fuji Kit too. I found when I processed some Kodak E100G recently that that probably should use the standard times.
I haven't had much joy with pushing. Kodak suggests not going over 8.5 minutes but as I'm going to 7 mins as standard anyway 1.5 minutes extra isn't giving me more than 1 stop of push. Maybe I need to add an extra stop when exposing and reduce my standard developing time to 6 mins??
Good videos, quite relaxing on in the background! Good to see Stanley making an appearance too!
You should post a link on the APUG forum, I'm sure it'd be very welcome there, although you will end up having an argument over the evils of blix!
It would be interesting to know what the second developer is doing – what happens when its time is increased?
Highlight this Comment Tristan Campbell27/10/2009, 17:53
Excellent article Tim, thank you. It really gives one confidence to have a go at colour processing. I tray dev all my b/w but tend to use colour far more. If C41 works out at about 16p per pic too then it I may get me down to about 1.20 per shot which would be great (until I run out of cheap film that is). I wonder how long before this is actually the only option for colour 5x4 processing?
Highlight this Comment Tim Parkin27/10/2009, 23:38
Thanks Dav - I'll tweak the notes with the times.. I was hoping to get some info from Richard about his pushing, pulling experiments too..
Highlight this Comment Dav Thomas28/10/2009, 00:03
"Third Run 17'15"I wouldn't do that with anything I cared much about!! Although it might come out as a whole new artform...
Highlight this Comment Nicholas Andre28/10/2009, 01:13
I think you're supposed to mix with water. So for example you would add 150 mL of water and then 50mL part A, stir, and then 50 mL part B. The fizzing is not good AFAIK.
Highlight this Comment Tim Parkin28/10/2009, 08:19
I found one mistake I'm making (although it didn't have disastrous consequences - in fact hardly any at all). The instructions on some e6 kits suggest adding the water first so that most of the chemical reaction will take place in a dilute solution rather than potentially different chemical reactions taking place once concentrated checmical A hits concentrated chemical B.
@Tristan: I've got some Portra to develop and a C41 kit so I'll post some info when I get that done..
Highlight this Comment eliat28/10/2009, 10:38
Thanks Tim for demystifying the development and loading processes with such a nice set of video. As to the processors, there appears to be a whole range of models. Are their differences documented somewhere? Which is the best choice for a small-volume, limited-space setup at home for 4x5?
Highlight this Comment Sam Gibbons28/10/2009, 11:01
Hi Tim,
Just wanted to say your article and videos were excellent. I really miss developing my own film like in my college days. The work and effort involved with film development is definately worth it. After watching your videos i may be purchasing my own kit.
Highlight this Comment Tim Parkin28/10/2009, 11:04
Hi Eliat, If you could do me a favour and pop your comment on the blog I'll add a longer answer (I'm trying to keep the info in one place). The short answer is that the CPE range is the dead simple version just a thermostat, heater and motor. CPP has a lift (which is just an accessory for the CPE) which means you can add chemicals and empty them without taking the drum off. It also has better temperature regulation because of a cold water connection (for colling), a pump for circulation and digital entry/readout of temperature. The ATL2 is a fully automated version where it pumps the chemicals automatically. The ATL1500 is full automated and posh but doesn't take 'expert' drums (i.e. lookup jobo expert drum, they're basically cylinders that you pinch the film into rather than reels). The ATL2x00 are the top of the range which do everything and can take any drums you like..
For a limited space set up for the cost concious, the CPE2 is cheap as a good start. If you have money lying around doing nothing, the ATL1000/1500 are a cool machine. The CPP is better version of the CPE but I don't know how much money they go for..
Highlight this Comment Bob Parslow28/10/2009, 15:12
Congrats. on the video, it almost looks like fun
All my Jobo sources suggest setting water bath temperature to about 39 C to allow for thermal gradient across the tank wall. I have checked this out by measuring the dev temp at the end of development and find the higher bath temp is needed to keep the developer within the +/-0.3 C specified.
Here in Norfolk, I find that all solutions and wash water need to be filtered to get a reasonably clean trannie: providing filtered wash water within the recommended tolerance of +/- 0.5 C for 1st dev and colour dev washes is problematical.
Don't mix chemicals and the add then water. Manufacturers are specific on this point: Kodak publish on-line detailed guidance on E-6 process (6 bath), {Processing (Z) manual: Z119}, as do Fuji Hunt and Jobo (references available) Although mainly directed at pro processors, they all give good backgound information which I have found useful. If you think that E-6 is tolerant of cock-ups, these sources are worthy of perusal
First development times are a problem. Although guideline times a given by manufacturers, the proper procedure is to process and measure process control strips and adjust development times to achieve specified target values This method is used to allow for differences in process equipment etc. Dav has referred to a max development time for the Kodak as 8.5 minutes; this does not refer to a push process time but is the maximum allowable time for adjustment to achieve specified density ranges. I notice that Kodak give no push process times for the E-6 single use process kit which suggests that dev concentrations may be too low in this kit and may explain Davs problems with push processing ? As I don't have access to a transmission densititometer, I set my dev time by shooting a step tablet, 7 minutes seems to be OK for both Tetenal 3-Bath and Kodak 6-bath in my system.
Mixing coffee, dog food and chemicals is not good practice.
Highlight this Comment Tim Parkin28/10/2009, 16:00
Hi Bob - Thanks for the comment - agree with you about the temperature, I measure the deveoper temp directly and the bath temp needs to be about a degree higher to keep it stable. Also, comment taken about adding chemicals the wrong way, I've added an update at the bottom of the blog entry.
I might have to play with push times although I think Richard Childs may have done this with the Fuji Hunt chemicals already..
Also comment noted about bad practise mixing cofee, pets and chemicals. Having worked in a chem lab for a while, I picked up some bad practices (although I did check the tox levels before hand and oral at 5g/Kg is a hell of a lot). I'll add an appropriate warning...
Have you got a website Bob?
Highlight this Comment Dav Thomas28/10/2009, 18:23
Thanks for clearing up the the details over the first developer times with the Kodak kit and the 8.5 minute max – that makes more sense now. I have found reference to push and pull processing with Kodak E6 chemicals on their j83.pdf, although it doesn't say if that applies to all its chemicals including the 5lt kt. I will give it a go when I've next messed up an exposure (shouldn't have too long to wait!). Interesting it also suggests an increase in chemical temp (or decrease if pulling).
I also set my water bath higher at 39 C, and I'm afraid I'm also guilty of coffee making / kitchen cleaning during the process – I do make sure I wash my hands first though!
Highlight this Comment Tom Kershaw29/10/2009, 11:28
Bob,
Here in Norfolk I run the darkroom water supply through an inline filter available from Nova Darkroom.
Highlight this Comment Chris George29/10/2009, 16:28
thanks for this Tim. Excellent article. Quite frankly I'm getting sick of digital imaging and I'd love to start processing my own images again. Your post has made me realise the benefits of doing my own developing Best wishes www.chrisgeorge.net
Highlight this Comment Ben Heaven29/10/2009, 19:36
Hi Tim,
Thanks for posting this excellent guide. I found it really helpful to watch your approach after using the Kodak 1 shot kit (for one batch only so far). Using a CPE2 the six bath kit is a bit more awkward than the kit you are using. I have to use a picnic cooler alongside the Jobo to keep the additional chemistry (and wash water) at 38 degrees. It works well, but I must admit the Fuji kit looks like it's a bit less hassle with a CPE. Also being able to reuse the chemicals is a bonus!
Highlight this Comment Sam Gibbons30/10/2009, 10:17
Hi Tim, Dont know if this is useful to you or if you know about it already, but there is a forum on flicker for developing and processing your own film http://www.flickr.com/groups/diy_color/. Hope its of some use
Highlight this Comment Jose Suro30/10/2009, 12:01
Hi Tim,
Cool guide! On your film push times. I recently had my friends at the local lab push Velvia 50 +1-stop for me. They recommended 1-minute and twenty seconds. The 120 roll came out perfectly, making me think that I could shoot everything at ISO 80 and just push the 50 - ergo, no more "forgot to change the ISO on the meter deals".
Highlight this Comment Bob Parslow30/10/2009, 23:48
Tom
So do I in fact. I was really noting the need for filtration if one is to achieve a clean trannie
Bob
Highlight this Comment Gary Spicer31/10/2009, 00:38
Tim,
I have been wanting to develop my own colour films/transparencies for ages. Been doing lots of B&W in my old paterson tanks. So about 5 weeks ago I bought a CPE2 on ebay, and some chemicals from firstcall. Tonight after waiting for weeks to find time I developed my first 35mm colour film, very satisfying it was to. So I would like to thank you for your excellent videos which I sat through this afternoon, they made it a bit less daunting!. Just a note to add to other comments here I found setting the water bath at 38 was leaving me 1 degree short in the dev etc, so setting the bath at 39 Is a good idea! I have also put a small aquarium pump in mine which helps alot!
Thanks Gary
Highlight this Comment Dan Baumbach01/11/2009, 00:46
Thanks for posting this. I'm not ready to start doing my own E6 processing but it's good to know what it entails. I did some 35mm E3 processing when I was 18. E6 is much simpler.
Highlight this Comment Johan Rydberg17/01/2010, 19:11
I believe the 2x00 series is pretty much a 1500 but bigger.
£1000 you say. Hmm. I paid £220 for mine! Maybe I should sell it and make a few bucks :)
Highlight this Comment Tim Wilson26/03/2010, 23:15
Your an absolute leg - Thanks so much for posting this. God bless your cat.
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